Seven more weeks of school and then I'm done - can you believe it??? That's if I get through my student audit - supposedly there's a class I need to take - as if 180 credits isn't enough. I'm praying that gets resolved and I am done with school.
Well, here's the blog...
EDIE’S
ITALY TRIP BLOG
I had an
awesome time in Italy, and before the memories fade, I wanted to write
everything down. I thought I’d share it as well. It was a trip of a lifetime.
October 2, 2104
Today I’ve
decided to take advantage of the study abroad program in Italy. It’s in a
little more than two months – lots to plan!
October 14,
2014
I booked
my flight and the hotel I’ll stay at while in school. I’ve going to work with
Chef Culver on an itinerary for the trip. I’m having trouble getting the
registration to go through.
I’m so
looking forward to this trip - I’m not
in a good way lately – the externship at the country club is chipping away at
my confidence.
November 2,
2014
I worked
with Rail Europe and got an itinerary in place for the trip. Here’s what it
looks like:
December
14-23 Perugia
December
23-25 Bologna
December
25-26 Parma
December
26-27 Verona
December
27-29 Milan
December
29-30 Turin
December
30-31 Genoa
December
31-January 1 Sienna
January
1-3 Naples
January
4-6 Palermo
January
7-9 Rome
What’s unfortunate
about the timing of this trip is I’ll be there during four of their National
holidays – Christmas Day, Boxing Day, New Year’s Day, and Epiphany.
December 14,
2014 – Hotel Tirrenus
It seems
like forever ago since I arrived at the Detroit airport. We traveled from 1:30p
Saturday until 5p Sunday. I didn’t sleep at all on the plane – my legs were
moving the whole time. We spent a good part of the day at the Roma Termini –
the train system is on strike today. Caprice – my friend from school – and I
traveled together on the same flight, which was awesome! We went out for pizza
and a beer tonight at a local pizzeria. It was so good! We’re both tired, but
excited for class tomorrow! Finally got to sleep at 8:30. A very nice room. What’s
pretty standard here I guess is you use your room key to keep the lights on in
the room.. It’s a good idea, because lights won’t be left on all day if you’re
not in the room.
December 15,
2014
We go down
to breakfast, which is a bit of a disappointment. We do, however, have a real cappuccino
if we want! There’s cereal, granola, sweets, but no meats and cheeses typical
for an Italian breakfast. A gentlemen
heard us speaking English at breakfast and started a conversation with me. I
didn’t get to talk to him very long because we needed to meet out front. He was
sorta cute though! The students in our class met up this morning at the hotel.
Surprisingly, there are only five of us. There’s me and Caprice from Michigan,
Marcus from Ohio, Michele from Arizona, and Shelby – a very immature 19 year
old from Toronto. Our contact from the school – Universita dei Sapori – met us
and the school and we got a ride to school. The rest of our time here, we will
be walking to and from school.
We had a
lecture today, which was really informative and interesting. We learned a lot
about ancient Italy, and the fact that Italy joined as a country relatively
recently, but still in a lot of ways, especially when referring to food, Italy
is referred to as regional. This class is really going to be fun. I was still
really tired today and decided I didn’t want to go to dinner.
I was
e-mailing when there was a knock at the door. It was one of my classmates
saying the guy we met at breakfast wanted to see me. I got dressed, went
downstairs, and outside there’s a bus full of people. He gets off the bus and
asks (in his very broken English) if I would like to go into town and where are
my friends? I say they are all doing their own thing, but I’d like to go. So,
I’m wondering – what am I doing? He introduces me to everyone on the bus (none
of which speaks English) and we head to downtown Perugia. The bus drops us off,
and almost half the bus heads in another direction. So, here I am, with six
guys, heading who knows where. We end up at a nice little pub. All the guys –
even though they don’t speak English and I don’t speak Italian and discussing
me and what I’m doing with their friend. I’m wondering the same thing! We order
and I order a small beer – of which I have about six that night! I somehow end
up in a foosball tournament, but we get knocked out in the first round. I’ve
never played foosball in my life.
So, the
guy who invited me and I talk a little. I tell him about my divorce and he
tells me about his marriage of four years. So, we both get it – nothing going
on here. He leaves to make a phone call and the guys are trying like mad to
have a conversation with me and I’m trying like mad to understand. I try to
tell them about Michigan and how cold it is. The guy beside me puts his arm
around me, thinking I’m cold. Oh, boy! Long story short – nothing ends up
happening. LOL! Anyway, they leave the hotel two days later and I didn’t even
know the guy’s name. He was single, cute, and made me feel awesome!
December 16,
2014
Well,
we're two days into the session and it's fantastic! There are only five of us.
They decided to run the class anyway because they knew we'd be disappointed.
They've been in talks with The Art Institute for like a year to get this
program off the ground - they said we are ambassadors to promote the program!
They are filming us and documenting us. We will be doing an interview as well!
It's so exciting to be on the ground floor of this program. They said we could
come back next time just to do an internship if we wanted and they'd arrange to
have it set up.
Yesterday
was all lecture. We learned so much about the early roots of Italian cooking.
We made it up to the Renaissance Period. Today we had a lecture from an
Archeo-Chef. He studies food culture and recipes from ancient times. We cooked
a pasta and wild boar dish called Itriya with a game condiment. We actually
made the pasta! Then we made a sweet called Placenta Semodiale made with the
cracker type puff pastry and ricotta cheese, topped with honey as soon as it
comes out of the oven. We also made a Frontonian Chicken - chicken and leeks.
All of these dishes were made with ingredients only available during the 9th
century. In the afternoon, we made Pottaggio di Cigotto with Almond Milk - pork
shins, celery, carrots, onion, cinnamon, brown sugar and cloves. In between the
two cooking times, we got to eat the first three dishes leisurely - with a
glass of wine! We had an assessment right before leaving. It's like a 20-minute
walk to and from school. I am so stuffed from today.
Just got
back from the bar across the street. Not much to do in the area we're in.
Tomorrow I'm going into town either by myself or with someone.
December 17,
2014
Today we
had our first day with Chef Stefano. He’s very calm, relaxed, and funny. We
learned so many pastas today – I love it. I hope when I go home I can duplicate
them. We are eating everything we make. We learned how to make a “soft” pasta
dough and a “hard” pasta dough. Their flours are different from ours so I’ll
have to convert the recipes to our flours.
A typical
Italian meal would start with an antipasto, like our appetizer. Then the primo
course, or pasta course. You could also serve soup, rice, or polenta at this
time. The secondo, or main course consists of chicken, meat, or fish.
Sometimes, a contorno course – a platter of vegetables – is served with the
secondo course. Then, of course, the dolce – dessert course. We didn’t necessarily make every course every
day. Today we started with Fassone Tartar Albese Style. Fassone is beef rump roast. We then learned
how to make Tagliatelle with Bolognese Ragout, Pistachios, and Dried Prunes.
That dish was my favorite of the day. We also made a Veal Guanciale (cheek)
with Barolo. Then we learned to make Milanese Style Marrowbone, Saffron
Risotto, and finished with Tiramisu. I ate so much I could hardly walk!
I started
feeling crappy today. Don’t know if it’s what Marcus has or just jet lag. I
don’t want to be sick. I just stayed in tonight.
December 18,
2014
Chef
Stefano was awesome again today. And again, lots of good food! I don’t remember
the order, but we made Chicken Liver Pate, Crouton, and Red Onion Marmalade. I
really don’t like liver that much, but I loved this! The Red Onion Marmalade
had the best taste. Then we made Papa col Commodore, which is a dish from
Florence. Pomodoro is tomato and it was an awesome soup. The next dish I’ve
never even eaten, which was Carbonara Spaghetti and Ravioli. I can’t believe
I’ve never eaten it – awesome! We prepared Red Mullet, a Pork Loin with Fennel,
and for dessert, Cantuccini and Vin Santo – a layered dessert with streusel,
Bavarian cream, Vin Santo jelly (made with this great dessert wine of which I
was sure to bring a bottle back), then covered with a soft, white chocolate
frosting.
Again,
thought I was going to burst. Caprice wanted to go to town for dinner, so we hit
the bar across the street first. We ate at a great restaurant – inside an old
castle! Perugia is a castle town, very quaint. The shops are awesome. Since
it’s close to Christmas, it’s decorated for the holiday, and there’s an ice
rink. We did a little shopping, but we plan to come back again Saturday
afternoon. I want to shop!
December 19,
2014
I FEEL
LIKE CRAP. Darn it – I don’t want to be sick. I ended up stopping at the Pharmacia
across the street for some cough lozenges, which help, but then I realized I
should have gotten some Tylenol too. We have a new chef, in addition to Chef
Stefano, today. He is high octane, go, go, go – so different from Chef Stefano,
but he’s nice. I wish I could remember his name! My memory is sooo bad. Today
we made Pugliese Style Orecchiette (loved making the pasta shape), Fusilli alla
Norma (again, fun pasta to form), Lamb Stew, Sword Fish in Salmoriglio Sauce
(we blanched and fried the skin as a garnish!!!), Octopus Luciana Style
(really, really delish), and for dessert – Babá. (This is a dessert I’ve seen a
lot over my travels through Italy.)
The group
is going to town tonight, but I feel like crap, and I figure tonight is the
only chance I’ll have to do laundry because of the laundry hours and our hours.
December 20,
2014
Saturday
and we’re going on a field trip – and I keep feeling worse. I head over to the Pharmacia
for some cold tablets. We are going to see how truffles are found. We know that
pigs are not used like they used to because pigs bite. These are dogs. What a
fun and interesting morning! It felt good to be outside, which reminded me so
much of when I was in the UK. We held bunnies that were born that morning.
After we went truffle hunting, we went to lunch at a restaurant where the chef
either grows or raises all of his product. Wish I would have written down the
name of the restaurant. On the way back, we get dropped off in town to do some
shopping. I get separated right away from the girls, link up with Marcus, then
get separated from him. I bought some Perugia chocolates, a wallet for
Brittany, and a nativity. I figure out the way back and get on a bus back to
the hotel.
December 21,
2014
I spent
most of today sick in bed. Went to bed early last night and got up about
10:30a. Caprice and I were supposed to go to Rome today. Everyone but me ended
up going to the home of Marilena. I wish I could have gone. By the time I got
to the Pharmacia, they were closed. Want to feel better for tomorrow.
December 22,
2014
Still
feeling sick, but I can function. The cappuccinos – several a day – help me. This
is the worst cold and the worst I’ve ever felt. We are all getting it. While
walking to school today, we ended up having to backtrack, so I was exhausted by
the time I got there. We produced a traditional Christmas meal today. Boiled
Meats Salad for the starter, which was actually pretty good. Then we had
Cappelletti in Broth. Marcus chopped the chicken so fine for the pasta it was
awesome. Then Michele made the tiny balls and we made the pasta. I’m so proud
that I know how to make these! This is a dish that is made in advance and
served to family on Christmas Day. The Stuffed Beef Pocket is a traditional
southern Italy dish. Because we didn’t have days in advance to prepare it, we
used premade Panettone and Pandoro cakes with a custard filling. I want to
bring one of those Panettones home with me, but I know I won’t be able to. We
had the opportunity to go back to the hotel early. I went right to bed, but
there was trouble with Shelby, which, there’s been trouble with her all week.
She woke me up at 3:00a making noise. I found out the next day that she moved
out of the hotel because the proprietor wouldn’t let her bring a guy to her
room.
December 23,
2014 – Hotel Il Guercino
Today I
feel even worse, if that’s possible, and now I have a “stomach” flu. Michele
got a cab to school and I got a ride with her. I have the sweats and today is
our final. I decide I cannot do this final with having to worry about the
bathroom. I stayed for the recorded interview, and then Caprice – who is also
sick – and I get a ride back to the hotel with Guilea. I just fall into bed. I
felt terrible about missing that final because I know I would have done well.
After
sleeping most of the morning and into the afternoon, I get myself packed up.
Caprice, Marcus, and I take a cab to the train station, we have something to
eat, then they head to Rome and I head to Florence, and then switch trains for
Bologna. I hope to walk around tomorrow, go to church since it will be
Christmas Eve.
On the way
to Florence, the train went through Arezzo. It seemed like a very modern town.
A huge carnival was set up. I looked it up and Arezzo is one of Tuscany’s
wealthiest cities, based on the diamond industry. Luckily, the train station in
Florence is pretty easy to switch trains at because when I got there, my train
to Bologna was already on the track. I asked the conductor previously when I
got on the train if I’d make my connection. He found someone who spoke English
to tell me to hurry over to the right track. I was so thirsty and wanted to buy
a water, but didn’t have time.
The sounds
on the train – the conversations, the kids, this is going to be an awesome
experience. Across from me are a father and daughter Skyping with someone. I
wish I knew more Italian. It makes me angry with myself that I didn’t make the
time to study before this trip. A food trolley came around. I just wanted to
buy a water, but they had a Christmas special going – a bottle of water,
sandwich, and dessert for only 1 euro! Yeah!! I drink the water right down and
save the sandwich. I can’t believe I’m taking this trip – by myself!!! But
still, tomorrow is Christmas Eve and I can’t believe I’m not spending it with
my husband and boys. Better than last year, though, when I spent Christmas Eve
and Christmas Day by myself – this is so much better! I settle into the tiny
hotel room, eat my sandwich, watch a little CNN, and go to bed.
December 24, 2014
Buon
Natale! (Merry Christmas) from Bologna!
So much
happened just today I have to share. Plus, I'm in a pretty dodgy part of town,
it's only 8:41p, and I'm in my tiny hotel room with no TV - it just stopped
working. I'm not really watching, but it's better than silence. I have to say,
I'm pretty lonely - really the memories of Christmas' past have been with me
all day. I miss my Mom so much and I wish I could just call her and talk. I'm
thinking of so many people today. Just the situation I'm in right now - not
married and not with anyone special - is also hard. It will be better once Christmas
is over.
So, today
I decided to hike to the post office to mail half of my suitcase back to the
states. Chef Culver told me!!! Well, I purchased some stuff in Perugia, plus I
had my notebook with recipes from class, my jacket, and pants, plus I mailed my
jeans, hiking boots, fleece, and other clothes. I got rid of about 11 lbs. of
stuff. That was an adventure. I'll be brief.
I find the
post office. I go in and there are several other services available so I try to
decide which ticket to take to queue up in line. I wait about 10 minutes, go to
a lady, no English. Finally, someone tells me I have to get into another line.
I do. I finally get to the counter and say "comprare un la scatola"
buy a box. I think I'm doing pretty good. OMG!!! She says I have too much and
on and on, then she brings over a collapsible box to purchase, and tells me
it's going to be 82 euro to send and It didn't matter! LOL! I finally got that
shipped!!!
Then I
head into the city centre. I'm not feeling well - cold sweet and it's getting
COLD! Yep, you guessed it! I JUST put my wool hat - that I've not needed this
trip so far - in the box going to the states. I walk into a store and 10 euro later,
I have a snappy new hat!!! LOL!!!
It's
Christmas Eve and bustling. I’m soooo enjoying this! Oh, you know what I'm no
longer good at? Reading a map. I do figure out how to get to the centre - and
happen to walk by where I need to go to get the train. I got way lost last
night and ended up taking a taxi to the hotel. Anyway, I stop first at a
beautiful church, San Pietro. I see there are priests hearing confession, so I
stand in line. I talk to a priest who spoke English, so that was nice. Their
Christmas Eve mass was to be at 10p. I was thinking that's pretty late, but
we'll see.
There were
100's of shops and cafes. I got the boys their gift, some olive oil, and a few
other little gifts - filling the suitcase again!!! There was another church in
Piazza Maggiore - this one was Basilica di San Petronio, so lovely. I was
really chilled so I stopped for a Ciabatta - tomato and mozzarella - and of
course a cappuccino! Oh, I forgot - before that earlier in the morning - I had
a cappuccino and a croissant - standing at a coffee bar. They also serve you a
tiny shot of carbonated water.
Too cold,
so I do a little more sightseeing on my way back to the hotel. I took a 2+ hour
nap. I found a church closer to the hotel. I FIRST stop by a little cafe and
buy a traditional Italian Christmas dessert - it looks like a yule log, so good
- and a coffee---too many coffees today!! Then I went into the church. It
didn't appear as if they were having church just hearing confession. I just
happened to ask a couple, and they indicated that mass was in the basement! So
lucky I asked! So, I got to attend the Christmas Eve Vigil and Mass! I sat
beside an old Italian lady. She kept talking to me, even though I didn't
understand a word, then I just shook my head and agreed or laughed or whatever
the situation called for. LOL!
So that
was my adventure today. Tomorrow I head to Parma, just for the day. Think it's
going to be very quiet...
December 25,
2014 – Astoria Residence Hotel
This is
going to be a tough day. I woke up in Bologna, had breakfast, and headed to the
train station. A nice mom and son directed me to where I thought I had to go. I
just have to have confidence in myself. I made it to Parma, the hotel, and a 2 ½-hour
nap. I got up, went out and found a wonderful restaurant – La Greppia. It had
maybe 20 tables, very quaint. I ordered Prosecco, a starter of artichoke and
ham Parma sauce, tortellini stuffed with a plum raisin and nut filling, buttered,
and sprinkled with Parma. OMG – so good! Then the third course was an airlined
chicken breast in a chestnut sauce and whipped potatoes with candied
pomegranate seeds. I skipped dessert because they give you cookies – I also
ordered a cappuccino. I found out later in my trip that you NEVER order a
cappuccino past morning time. Oh, well, I love them! I left, and even though
I’m sick, I decide to see what I could see. Everything is shut down – probably
a good thing! So many beautiful buildings.
I saw the
duomo as I wanted to, then decided to head back to the hotel. I heard organ
music coming from a church I visited earlier in the day, where incense was
still hanging in the air. Mass was just beginning and I headed right up front!
It’s amazing how things just work out on this trip without planning them. I
felt transformed and so very blessed. A man played Brahms Lullaby on a
harmonica after the sermon, and then later performed Silent Night. That brought
back so many memories of the four of us going to mass on Christmas Eve. I wanted
to cry, but kept it together and thanked God for what I had right at that
moment. It was if He knew I needed to be there and He made it happen.
I walked
back to the hotel. I talked to Dad and the boys. I felt better after I talked
to them. I actually have the window open, watching CNN Heroes. How lucky am I?
December 26,
2014 – Hotel Mastino
I wonder
what today will bring, since it’s Boxing Day and a national holiday. I felt
like I didn’t sleep at all. I need to try to get to bed earlier tonight. I got
ready, ate breakfast, and checked out. I walked to the train station – getting
better at this! I met an American couple from DC – they had THREE suitcases
LOL! I head back to the Bologna train station, and then switch trains to
Verona. The train is packed and my suitcase is in the aisle. I guess I thought
I’d get to see lots of scenery on all of my train rides, but think about it –
what’s usually near the tracks – LOL! I keep forgetting to mention the fashion
in Italy. Puffy coats are all the rage from men and women. I can’t imagine it’s
new to this year because too many people have them. Boys with curls, skinny
jeans rolled up, no socks, and athletic shoes. Girls – like ours – long hair,
nails done dark, and lots of jewelry. I just wish I felt 100%. I make it to
Verona – not enough time to take a nap today but I’ll try for early bed. It’s
not as dead as I thought it would be today – awesome! What’s really cool is
that the street signs lead you to most of the important sites. When I check in,
I’m taken across the street to another building. I go to my very nice room,
grab a map, and then head out. I did no real shopping, but mostly sightseeing.
Verona – I want to see Juliet’s balcony, which I do, and there are letters
taped to the wall near her balcony. I also visit The Cathedral of Verona, San
Zeno, shop the stalls in Piazza delle Erbe, then walk around the water – Fiume
Adige – and end up at Ponte Pietra. I also visit an awesome coliseum. It’s
actually a very nice day – sunny. I eat something not worth mentioning and go
to bed.
December 27,
2014 – Hotel Flora
I walk my
suitcase across the street to the main hotel and have breakfast. It’s the best
breakfast of all the places I’ve stayed. Then I take a cab from the hotel and
head to the train station. In an hour, I’m in Milan – I love these high-speed
trains. The hotel is very close to the train station, after I figure it out. An
older woman pulls out her phone and gets the directions. I check in to the
hotel – another nice one, but on the small side. I have a walking tour starting
at 2:15. I decide to take a quick nap first. When I wake up from the nap, I
look outside and it’s snowing! I dress for the weather, take the metro to the
Duomo square, and decide to get something to eat. Because the weather is pretty
foul, everyone seems to be heading into a bookstore/café. It is so busy, and it
takes a while to get waited on. I pay my bill, and am leaving, and a fight
breaks out over a table!
I can’t
believe it’s snowing!! I decide to purchase a nice, warm scarf from a vendor
and I feel better. I meet up with the tour people, we get our headsets, and
head out. I wish I could remember everything we saw on the tour. We started out
at the beautiful duomo, where we see lots of statues and beautiful windows. Our
tour guide does a wonderful job of explaining things to us. We did take a coffee and sweet break at a nice
café. Then we went to the Sforza Castle where I’ll definitely come back to.
Finally, we go to Santa Marie delle Grazie to see da Vinci’s Last Supper. I
can’t believe it – something I’ve seen and ready about, but to actually see it?
It was amazing. We learned that da Vinci was commissioned to paint the Last
Supper, but not what part of the Last Supper, so he chose to depict the moment
when Jesus announces to the apostles that one of them would deny him that
evening. Da Vinci also chose not to paint the scene as a fresco, which would
have survived much longer. It recently went through a renovation – and survived
both World Wars.
After we
finished at Santa delle Grazie, I walked with a Mom and a daughter from there
to the square where we started. I decided to have dinner – Milanese Risotto,
which was awesome. I walked around a little bit, took some night photos, and
then headed back to the hotel by Metro.
December 28, 2014
Today I
decide to head out and do some shopping! It wasn’t my intention, but I bought a
sweater from H & M, and discovered a shop I end up shopping at every city I
visit from now on – Disigual!! I bought a sweater and bracelets. I visit the
Sforza Castle Museums, which are really, really interesting and a very
affordable price! The day is just gorgeous, and I take a walk. I bought some
roasted chestnuts and walk to see the football stadium. I have another nice
walk back. I really love Milan!
December 29,
2014 – Pacific Hotel Fortino
It’s
becoming a routine – breakfast, then the train station, then the next city.
This time, on to Torino, or Turin – whichever you prefer. So much to see – I
started by leaving the train station and WALKING about 30 minutes or more to
the hotel – carting my very heavy suitcase. The hotel is awesome – wish I were
staying here longer than one day. I head out – by cab - to do some sightseeing.
The best thing I saw was the Turin Cathedral and the Chapel of the Holy Shroud.
You really don’t get to see the Shroud, but the container it’s kept in. I found
out that the do unveil it every five years and millions of people come to visit
and view it. It was still pretty inspiring.
I did a
little bit of shopping – again! I remember when I was working at Kellogg and
the president of the Morning Foods Division brought back some chocolates for
us. I stopped in a shop and bought some. I also bought the coolest shoes – I’ve
been watching women and their shoes, and I really wanted these shoes – and I
found them! I bought a few other things, and headed back to the hotel. I found
a restaurant I wanted to check out, but got lost – naturally – and ended up at
a small restaurant called Beautiful. I had a pasta dish and a veal dish. He
brought bread and olives to the table. It was such a good meal and a very
authentic experience.
December 30,
2014 – Hotel Moderno Veredi
Breakfast
in the morning and on to Genova. I can’t
believe the high-speed trains. I came
into one train station very far from the hotel, but, luckily the station I’ll
be leaving from is right across the street. Genova – the birthplace of
Columbus! I tried to get a bus tour, but for some reason I missed it. So, I
decide to do some exploring on my own. I’m getting smarter about looking at
maps and keeping track of where I’m at. So, I go for a walk, have my daily
cappuccino, and end up on Via Garibaldi, where I find a bus tour! I join it and
am so glad I did. I got to see so much that I never could have seen on foot. We
end up back where we started, and I remember how to get back to the hotel. I
stopped at a little sidewalk café – covered to protect from the weather, but
not smoke-free. Anyway, I end up ordering a White Russian and a pasta with
pesto. As I’m walking back to the hotel, I see an awesome pair of boots – and
buy them. Suitcase is getting heavier and heavier! Back to the hotel – and
Italian TV. Something that’s really bugging me is the fact that I do have free
internet at the hotels, but it’s very spotty.
December 31,
2014 – Le Lupe B &B
Happy New
Year’s Eve! Today is a long train ride to Sienna. I leave from Genova to Pisa,
then switch trains to Empoli, then switch trains again and arrive in Sienna. On
the first train, we are in cabins, like in the first Harry Potter movie. Only
this time, I leave from platform 9, not 9 ¾! LOL! I’m in a cabin with two
lovers, about my age, and I’m so jealous. Will I ever experience that again?
They are sitting across from each other, holding hands. Then there’s a younger
guy, and then a young married couple. The ride to Sienna is beautiful. The
homes and apartments are just beautiful. I’m listening to my I-pod the first
time this trip. I’m now sitting in a COLD waiting room in Pisa for the train. I
dragged my suitcase up the steps to the station. I hope I don’t have to drag it
back down again! My stupid suitcase. I should never have brought so much, but
I’ve used just about everything. I hope the box I sent a week ago makes it to
the states. It is so cold!
The hotel I am
staying in – Le Lupe – contacted me and asked what time I’d be arriving. I gave
them the information. Then I received an e-mail that asked me to call one of
two numbers. I tried the first (making calls and receiving calls was going to
be expensive, but I knew I was only going to make a few so I opted for the
cheaper plan) number and no answer. I tried the second number and the gentleman
I was speaking with didn’t speak much English at all. After about 5 minutes
($5.00) he asked me to call back tomorrow! The e-mail indicated to me that
someone was going to pick me up, which I thought was nice, but no – not to be.
Then I got a
call (costs even more to receive a call) and the woman spoke a little more
English and said, so you’ll be at the B&B at 2? This was my first
indication I was staying at a B&B. I arrived by taxi, rang the bell, got
buzzed in, the door closed behind me and it was pitch black! I could not see my
hand in front of me and couldn’t figure out how to open the door again in the
dark.
I called out,
hello. Someone – in Italian – answered, and turned on some lights. It was about
500 steps to the top I swear. Long story short, this is not so good. There are
like eight bedrooms and a tiny kitchen – that was it. The bedroom has a tiny
bed, tiny bathroom, and it’s freezing! No heat! So, I decided to make the best
of it – after the guy collected my money and then left (there was no owner on
sight the whole time I was there, but I guess that’s typical.)
I went out
and saw everything I wanted to see. Mostly everything was in walking distance,
so that was nice. I bought an all-inclusive ticket to see the Duomo, Baptistery,
Cathedral, and Museum/Tower. You could climb up the tower and stand 330 ft.
above the city. It was a fantastic view, but freezing cold. It’s been so cold
here. The art I’ve seen since I got here is unbelievable – what a treat. There were shops galore and all open for the
New Year’s Eve customers. I bought a purse – finally found a cute one that was
at a decent price. Then I walked into a handmade pottery shop and bought a pasta
dish, matching oil bottle, and a fork and spoon for serving pasta. I’ll always
remember that shop when I serve pasta. The gentleman was very nice. I told him
about Pennsylvania and Michigan. He told me they did the stained glass windows
at Villanova, and the stained glass windows at a church in Traverse City.
I decided to
try to get warm – it was only going on 5p – and I stopped into a little café
with limited seating. It was cozy, and everyone was in a good mood. I ordered
Gnocchi Pomadoro – Gnocchi with Tomato. We made something similar in Perugia,
but it had a butter sauce and truffles grated on top. I also ordered a
cappuccino! I tried to eat slowly, but I couldn’t – the gnocchi was so good. I
knew I had to move along because there were people streaming into the place.
I’ve been tipping about 10% and servers are thrilled – they get next to no
gratuity.
I walked
outside and it was starting to get dark. I walked around a little, and then
decided to check out Piazza Del Campo where the New Year’s Eve festivities were
to be held. Now, you’ll know exactly what Piazza Del Campo is from two
different recent movies. The second James Bond movie with Daniel Craig,
remember when the horses are racing around a square? Or, Under the Tuscan Sun
when the young boy is flag twirling, which is a celebration to show their
loyalty to the area of Italy they are from. It was so awesome to see the square
at night.
There were
mostly restaurants surrounding the square, and it looked like you needed a
reservation. It was only 6:30p and I was freezing, even though I was wearing
long pants, two pairs of socks, a turtleneck, sweater, wool hat and scarf, and
gloves. So I decided to end the evening early and walk back to the B&B. Oh,
at some point, I went into a shop that sold dry pasta, spices, oils and
vinegars, etc. There was a nice very old couple running it. I had to buy a few
things – the smallest bottle of balsamic vinegar, but expensive, so I think
it’s pretty good. I’ll have to look it up – once I get dependable Internet! I
tried to explain to the couple that I was a chef (sorta, almost!) and I finally
took off my jacket and showed them my tattoo!
I get back to
the B&B, figure out how to use the key, find the light, walk up 500 steps
(LOL!), unlock the door, and it’s noisy! OMG the walls were as thin as paper.
There were a couple of babies crying, and I could hear TV’s going. I go into my
freezing room (it’s not unusual for establishments to automatically turn the
heat off at night, then turn it back on in the morning) and the floor is more
than freezing – slate tile. I’m watching It’s a Wonderful Life in Italian and
decide I better try the taxi company and order a taxi for 6a in the morning. I
can’t get through. There’s an extra digit in the phone number and I keep getting
an error recording. So, I call the only number I had and tried to explain my
situation to Fernando (the non-English speaking gentleman from earlier, then he
told me to call someone else. So, I did and asked if they could call the taxi
company for me. They weren’t very happy. I got a call back from Fernando’s
wife, but she kept telling me to call the number – the same number I had. I was
really frustrated now. Then the guy who checked me in texted me (these calls
and texts are adding up) and said I’d have to do it myself!
I then get a
call from the local Booking.com guy – the B&B called him and said that I
wanted a service they don’t provide. The guy was being a jerk, gave me another
number for the cab company, and this one has two extra digits!!! He also gave
me the international number for booking.com.
In the morning, I tried the number for the taxi again (the jerk told me
to leave the second 0 out of the phone number – that works sometimes!) The cab
company had an automated message and I could make out “leave the address where you need picked up
and wait for confirmation. Then I heard “Still hold…still hold…” I waited on
the line TWICE about 7 minutes each time. So, I called the international number
and was helped by two very friendly representatives. They ordered me the cab,
and I was so grateful.
January 1, 2015 – Hotel Colombo
When I got to
the train station, it was about 6:15a. I opened the door and there are kids
sleeping all over the place, and the Christmas tree in the station was torn
apart and all the ornaments broken. Must have been drunk revelers from the
night before. I looked at the board and my train number wasn’t listed. I went
to the ticket window and dealt with a very irate man. He said no speaky English
and just wrote down sloppily written numbers and an explanation I couldn’t get.
So, I asked, for the hell of it, what platform. He said 4 in Italian and I
understood that. There was a different train and a different end destination
(how would I have figured that out!!) so I ran to the train because it was
leaving! I dragged my suitcase down stairs, then upstairs to get to the tracks
on the opposite side of the station. Thought I was going to die!!!
I made it to
Florence, and now I’m on a high speed train to Napoli – Naples, where I hope
it’s warmer! I’ve been on a few high-speed trains so far on this trip. Today,
on the monitor, it stated we were traveling at 293kph. I tried to get up and go
to the bathroom and I was flying around like crazy. I decided it was more
important to just hold it rather than dying, so I just sat down. LOL!
I know for
sure I have another B&B for Rome, but they’ve been communicating with me
all along and answered the question about getting from the Roma Termini to the
B&B – I feel pretty confident.
So, if this
was the only glitch, I’m pretty lucky. I am writing a letter when I get back because
no where did it indicate it was a B&B. I paid just as much for this room.
New day, new start! Looking forward to the tail end of my journey!!!
OK, made it
to Naples, but still COLD! I got the first taxi in line, as you do, and told
him where I wanted to go. He said OK, put my suitcase and dead body in the
back, and then drove a little ways. He stopped the car and asked to see the
directions again. Then he called the hotel (I didn’t know this until after I
had checked in), then we stop where other cabs are parked, the driver gets out
and is asking his buddy for directions! He gets in the cab, drives about 500
ft., stops the car, and then says there it is. It’s down this awful alley, I
thought, well, this is it, I’m dead. I don’t think I can outrun anyone while
lugging this suitcase, but there’s no way I’m giving it up – even for my life!
LOL! I could probably drop it on its side and whoever was chasing me might trip
on it. So, back to the cab driver. I ask how much, he doesn’t speak any
English, and says an amount in Italian. It’s 20euro. I said, hey, wait a
minute, you were on the phone for quite a while, and you stopped to ask a
friend. He indicated that the upcharge was for my heavy suitcase (and dead
body), I said no, no, take 5euro off that. He did.
I’m going to
get murdered on the alley to the hotel. I check in and Dario checks me in. He
offers me a coffee and I ask about the tours. He suggests I just walk around
because everything is closed today being a holiday. He shows me my room. A
little later he calls my room and asks me if he could take me on a little tour
of Naples after he finishes work. I agree. Before that, I decide to take a
walk. I walk all over the place, but it’s dead – not too many people, museums
closed, and most of the shops as well. What’s good is that I get my bearings
for tomorrow or the next day!
January 2, 2015
Today is the Pompeii
trip! It was really, really interesting and our guide was a hoot! I can’t even
begin to describe what I learned today, not only about Mt. Vesuvius, but also
about life during that time. When we get off the bus and ready for the tour, I
find out that most of the people are then going on to Sorrento. I ask if it’s
OK for me to join the tour and I can!
I recently
watched the movie Pompeii, and I’m glad I had because it helped me visualize
things better. You know the expression, “shit runs downhill”, well I saw why!
The town of Pompeii is built on a hill. The most expensive homes were at the
top of the hill, and you can guess the rest. When they wanted to clean the
streets of poopy, they used gravity to take care of it! LOL! They had stepping
stones built into the street so, if you needed to cross the street while the
water was washing everything downhill, you wouldn’t have to step in it.
Our guide
explained that most of the people living there had a trade. Their business was
in front of their homes. Not only were the better properties at the top of the
hill, the best ones were where the sun hit most of the day. So, a typical day
would start at 6a, people would work until noon, then lunch was noon to one.
Then it was time to head to the spa for the next three hours. Not only would
they bathe and steam, but it was a time of social interaction, sharing news and
gossip, and relaxation. Then, from 4-5 was “free time” – time for the men to
visit the brothel. Oh, boy! The women had personal slaves, so I guess it was
even, unless the husband didn’t like the slave and let him go! LOL!
In between
the two tours, we have lunch – pizza! I have margherita pizza and it’s really,
really good. I cannot eat the whole thing. We head to Sorrento and it’s
amazingly beautiful. Tons of limoncello shops, but we stop at one of the
oldest. We try about 5-6 kinds, as well as candy, cookies…I’m really feeling
it! The shops, the fruit and vegetable stands, the buildings, and the water.
I’m so glad I got a chance to go. I end up having pizza for dinner, too.
January 3, 2015
Because my
train doesn’t leave until midnight tonight, I decide to pay for an additional
night at the hotel, even though I won’t be staying overnight. They give me a
bit of a break on the price. I’m glad I did it because I got a chance to do
some sightseeing, come back to the hotel and rest, and then leave for the train
station. I decided to check out the historic district. There were so many
people on the streets you couldn’t walk. I had my map, but I really didn’t need
it, believe it or not, I remembered where things were. On New Year’s, there
were people, but now there were PEOPLE! I wandered in and out of shops, trying
not to get run over by cars or motorcycles. Pedestrians had better get out of
the way because drivers are not stopping. And everyone takes it in stride. I’m
running across the street or putting my back as close to the buildings so I don’t
get run over and everyone else is just doing their thing. OMG the pizza shops –
people are standing 10-15 deep for pizza! I got to see the basilica and
churches I couldn’t get into before. Then, I got to go inside an old church not
used as a church anymore and see nativity scenes – miniature ones in great
detail. Naples is famous for them. It was so cool, but we couldn’t take photos.
I also visit
the National Archaeological Museum, which is good after seeing Pompeii, buy a
nativity, and eat a sfogliatella – a sweet pastry filled with ricotta cheese.
There are churches and piazzas galore and I see it all. I finally head back to
the hotel, pack up (my suitcase is sooo heavy), take a little nap, and then
head to the train station.
I get to the
train station about an hour early and it’s scary!!! I walk by a couple of guys,
I hear that they are American, and ask if I can sit with them. Interesting
conversation. They are both glass blowers – as a hobby – and they visited
Venice where Murano glass is very popular. We talked about our travels,
adventures, and misadventures! It was very nice!
The train
finally arrives. I lug “the suitcase” onto the train and it’s too wide to roll,
so I have to pull it sideways. This thing weights about 60-70 pounds and I’m getting
some muscles! So, the conductor takes my ticket, opens a berth door, and three
people are sleeping! Luckily, my bunk was on the bottom, but he had to take out
the ladder in order to put my suitcase in there. It wouldn’t lie down so it
could slide under the bunk. I’m trying to be quiet. I have to take out my
contacts, then get situated and pretend like I’m even going to sleep. So,
there’s a husband and wife, another guy, and me! The two guys snored all night
and the lady coughed all night. I get my earplugs, but they are not doing
anything. I forgot to charge my I-pod, so I think, maybe if I sleep at the
other end of the bunk, at least I won’t be two inches from the guy beside me.
Now, here’s the comedy part – only me, these things happen to only me.
I grab –
quietly - my coat, shoes, and backpack to put them at the other end of the
bunk. By this time everyone is back to sleep. When I grab my backpack, in the
dark, I set off my anti-theft device on my backpack!!!! It’s like a grenade,
you pull the pin, and it starts this high-pitched squeal. Now, for a split
second, I think, I could pretend I don’t know what’s going on, but then no,
that won’t work, so I’m reaching around, trying to find the grenade part, it’s
under the bunk, but then with the train moving, it’s flying around on the
floor. Now everyone’s up! Someone turns on the light, I see it, but I don’t
have my glasses on, so I’m trying to find the pin part on the backpack to
disable it. OMG! It’s finally off, then someone turns the lights back off. There’s
NO WAY I’m going to sleep now!! LOL!
Unfortunately,
the two guys continue to snore! I’m not sleeping AL ALL. The train stops a few
times, and then stops for good. It’s time to be loaded on the boat. They split
the train and run it onto a boat. I’m awake anyway so I go out of the berth and
watch. I have to pee like crazy, but they lock the bathrooms while we’re on the
boat. I watch a lady put her coat on, she speaks to me in Italian, and I figure
out “follow me – we’ll pee on the boat!” So, that’s what I did. It’s about 5a.
I think, I’ll go back and maybe I can sleep. I did – from 5:00 to 6:30 when we
got off the boat. Now people are starting to get off the train. The couple put
their upper bunk away, I lifted my suitcase onto my lower bunk, and we had room
to sit.
January 4, 2015
I’m writing
this as we travel along the coast, stopping to let people off the train. The
guy is still sleeping in the bunk above me. The view is fantastic. Palms and
sea grass and cactus! The waves are rolling onto the shore, there are all kinds
of boats on the beach, not locked up or anything. It’s a rainy day – my first since I got here,
unless you count when it snowed in Milan. There are gardens and olive trees and
fruit trees. I have to get some olive oil in Palermo for sure – my second
bottle this trip. I cannot wait to get back home and make pasta and sauces and
use the truffles I bought. I need someone to feed, so feel free to drop by
anytime!
I’ve
experienced so much, everything is starting to blur together. But, everything
is just working out the way it should. I’m not stressing or worried – the laid
back lifestyle is rubbing off on me. The guys and I were talking about that. No
one here is in a hurry. We’re walking around people and trying to get to where
we want to get to, and everyone is just arm in arm, taking their time. I’ve not
been this relaxed in a long, long time.
Of course, I
can’t be a tourist the rest of my life, so I’ve started to put my resume out
there. OMG I just saw the most awesome gardens. I wonder if they have more than
one growing season here, because stuff is coming up. I’ll have to research
that. I just saw a bunch of bee boxes. Everything I’d love to do – have my own
garden, some animals, bees, a smoke house. I’d love to live here.
I just got
back from checking out as much of Palermo as I could today. I’m still not
feeling 100% - very tired. But, I have a one-on-one foodie tour tomorrow
morning, so I can’t wait. Tonight, I had the best pasta and sauce I’ve ever had
in my life. I had to let the chef know it was awesome. Time for some Italian TV
while I wash out some clothes!!! Only had one cappuccino today – starting to
wean myself off of them!
January 5, 2015
I start the
day having to use my last right contact. I should have brought the baking soda
I use to help clean the protein off them, but then I thought, how am I going to
explain that white powder in a little baggie when they search my bag! Just a random note, do you know how long it’s
been since my nails were this long? I’ve either worked or gone to school for
the last four years and have kept them short – it’s getting hard to type. I
have the typical breakfast of a cappuccino and a “coronado” – croissant. I have
to meet the tour guide for the food tour. HE IS GORGEOUS!!!!!!---also taken,
also too young, did I say he was pretty sexy too? LOL! I think, I get this hunk
to myself for the next three hours? No, there’s a family and another couple
joining us. The family is from Sydney and the couple is from Germany – she
worked for Audi and he worked for Porsche. Oh well, the price is now cheaper,
so it’s all good!
The tour is
awesome! It lasted about 4 ½ hours, and not only did we do foodie things, we
also visited touristy sites. We start out by visiting the oldest market in
Palermo – don’t remember how old. We stop at a stall where we try some dried
tomato, olive oil, raisins, pine nuts, and something else – maybe basil? I buy
some dried tomatoes, olive oil, and a spice package for pasta. The market is
separated by food, handmade items, and junk! LOL! The fresh fruit and vegetables,
the fish and seafood, and---goats, freshly killed because they were hanging
upside down and blood was dripping on the ground! Cool!! I have photos of the
butcher cutting up the meat right there!
Here are the
foods we stop for – Panelle (fried chickpea), Cozily (potato, mint, and
parsley), and Aroncine (rice balls). They resemble an orange and were meant for
going to war – food to go. Then, as we walk, we listen to Mario. He gives us a
very nice area tour as well. We then stop for Sfincione – Sicilian pizza.
There’s two types of pizza – whole pie and slice. When we buy pizza by the
slice, it’s the same size slice for the same price. In Italy, you show the chef
how big a slice you want, then you pay for it by weight. Next, we went to a
street vendor for Pane ca Meusa – Spleen sandwich! It was started by the Jews.
They take veal, use the good stuff for something else, and what’s left over is
cooked in pork fat and put on a sandwich. It was actually pretty good! Then we
stop at Toto’s for Zibibbo Marsala Sangue – wine. We also have some apps. to go
along with it – lovely! The last item – cannoli with goat’s milk ricotta! The
best one I’ve tasted in my life.
After the
tour, I end up back at the Opera House. If you watched the last Godfather,
you’ll remember where Mary is shot and killed, and Al Pacino holds her and
there’s a silent scream. I go on a tour, and we’re allowed to walk down those
steps. I do quite a bit of shopping in Palermo. In fact, I buy another
suitcase, which I think will be a carry-on, but ends up being an additional bag
I have to check. I have dinner at Ristorante 59 and have pizza. Of course, as
big as a dinner plate, but it was topped with cappa, artichoke, mushrooms,
cheese, sauce and – hot dogs! I’m not feeling well, and can’t seem to fall
asleep. I end up watching two scary movies and sleep in until about 11a.
January 6, 2015
Palermo is
beautiful. I do a lot of exploring because it’s pretty easy to keep your
bearings. Today is the last national holiday – Epiphany – and most of the shops
are open in the morning only. I do some exploring and walk by a beautiful park.
The day is very warm, I write some in my journal, and call my Dad. I walked by
a Catholic church that was just letting out from mass. There were Three Wise
Men, and a procession. Again, how things just work out. I walked into a
building because I saw some people walking out. It looked as if there were
children who had just opened some presents. Then there was a guy, dressed up as
Befana.In Italian folklore, Befana is an old woman who delivers
gifts to children throughout Italy on Epiphany Eve (the night of January 5) in a
similar way to St. Nicholas or Santa
Claus. Children get gifts from both Father Christmas and
Befana. I get my picture with him! I really shop at the vendors today. Another
charger (the first one I bought didn’t work, so I was buying this one on
faith), a bracelet, and some rings. I also buy a lovely necklace from an
artist. I end up in H&M again! And
– you guessed it – Desigual as well. I stopped in a square and listened to a
band. There are kids riding bikes and running around. Families are enjoying the
day off.
I only have one more pill left for my UTI – I am starting
to feel better. I end up walking back to the hotel to pack up. When I get to
the train station, I try to change my reservation to a 2 person cabin but I’m
told the train is full, so I’m stuck with 3 other people. Long story short –
snoring again. What’s better this time is we get on the boat earlier so I get
something to eat and watch us pull away. Back onto the train – and – no sleep
again!
January 7, 2015
I arrive at Roma Termini and take a taxi to the B &
B. Six flights of stairs! I walk up with my carry-on and my backpack. Then I go
back down and try to carry up my suitcase. The owner helps me about half-way
up. She says, didn’t you see on our site that we didn’t have an elevator? Ah,
no, obviously not! This is the smallest room yet, but that’s ok. No, breakfast
either, but I’m OK with all of this because I’m right around the corner from
St. Peter’s! Since today is Wednesday, Pope Francis will be speaking to the
crowd. I really want to go, but I’m exhausted. I decide it’s better to take a
little nap. I decide to take a bus tour so I can see all of the sites. I stay
on the bus and see everything I wanted to see. I’d been there twice before.
Before we get off the bus, it starts to rain and turn cold. I decide it won’t
be a good idea to walk over to Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps. Instead, I
do a little shopping for some friend’s gifts, then grab dinner. It’s a regional
dinner of a pot roast type dinner, but in a red sauce, spaghetti in a red
sauce, zucchini, peas and potatoes, too. I asked for a regional white Pinot. I
get a scoop of coconut and a scoop of chocolate gelato with whipped cream and a
cappuccino for dessert. There’s a couple sitting beside me, and they like the
look of my dessert so much they order it, too! The little restaurant was really
near St. Peter’s and was called Café Risorgimento.
I forgot how beautiful St. Peter’s is. Walking into the
square there’s a nativity scene, Christmas music playing, and a beautifully
decorated tree. It’s starting to rain pretty good now, and I walk through
security, then inside. I decide to go to the dome. It is an awesome view. Then
an American woman notices me and says you can climb further up and walk around
outside the dome! OMG – had no idea - just another instance where things just
seem to work out. I counted the tiny, circular stairs – 315. I thought I was
going to die, but didn’t want to slow anyone down behind me. Here’s the really
cool part. While up there, the rain almost completely stops. There’s an awesome
view of the city. I walk around and take photos. Then I climb back down those
same 315 stairs. There’s a souvenir shop that only those who take the tour of
the dome and decide to climb to the top can know about. I buy a beautiful
nativity to add to my collection. I am in seventh heaven. I bought myself a
rosary. I have no idea where mine is, so I buy – you guessed it – a pink one,
but not only that, it has the crucifix that is at the top of Pope Francis’
staff – the same staff that Pope Paul II carried. Again, things come together.
I walk into St. Peter’s and it’s amazing. There are
people everywhere, some praying, some taking photos, I wonder how many people
are there for the very first time, and how many have been there many times,
like me. I want to go into the grotto to see the tomb of Pope Paul II, but it’s
closed for the night. I’ll come back again in the morning before the food tour.
I say a rosary, and slowly walk my way to the front entrance. It’s raining, but
just a drizzle. I make my way back to the B & B. I’m just so tired. I can’t
believe this is almost over. I’m sad, but excited about the next couple of
months. I think about the restaurant I had dinner at last night. I would have
done so many things differently. It’s obvious they don’t get a lot of patrons,
probably a lot of tourists. The music, for one thing, was all wrong and so
loud. Too many things to mention. I just want to do something where I’m happy.
January 8, 2015
I got a
little sleep last night, noisy couple beside me when they came in until they
went to bed. I woke up a few times and got up later today then I wanted to. I,
of course, stopped for a cappuccino and a Coronado, and then I headed to St.
Peter’s. How am I going to survive when I get back home not having this
wonderful breakfast every morning? LOL!
You could
take a million photos, but they just don’t do it justice. I start out going to
the grotto, follow the signs for Pope Paul II’s tomb, but I go through the
grotto and back into St. Peter’s. His tomb is actually an altar where mass is
held, which is totally awesome, as he was a Pope for the people. I say another
rosary at his altar, walk around, take one last look, and head out down the
street to the metro. I need to meet the tour in Testaccio, which is on the
metro. I’m getting really good at this metro thing! The little neighborhood is
described in my tour book as this “traditional Roman cuisine originated in the
Testaccio area, near the old slaughterhouse whose butchers were paid partially
in meat, including head, feet, tail, intestines, brain and other bits of the
beast not for the squeamish, but which when cooked slowly and richly flavored
with herbs and spices, became a culinary delight.” It’s not one of those places
where tourists would usually seek out – only us “foodies”!
Here’s
another funny story. I get to the metro stop – Piramide – and have no idea
where to go. There’s an older gentlemen who overhears me asking someone for
directions. He tells that person, in Italian, he is heading that way. I say,
OK, let’s go…I’m thinking we’re walking. No, he’s driving. Now, do I get in a
stranger’s car? He’s older, seems innocent, so I do. He does indeed drop me in
the neighborhood! I’m early, so I walk into a nice food shop. I’m in heaven!!!
There’s pastas and oils and sweets, and wines and OMG – I want to shop! I ask
the guys to put some things to the side for me and they say something about
4:00pm. I’m like, OK, I’ll be back after the food tour. What they meant was
they would open up again after lunch at 4, so when I went back, they were
closed. I was still the only one there, so I went down the street a little and
found a shoe store. Yep, I buy another pair of shoes! LOL! Now people are
starting to show up. Once we’re all there, we head off for the tour. Now, I
have to tell you, the guide looks nothing like the guide I had in Palermo and
you know why? He’s not Italian – he’s from Philly. He speaks English and
Italian---but I’m not sure he knows much about food.
If you’d like
to see photos of this tour (not ours, but the one we went on), visit http://foodloversodyssey.typepad.com/my_weblog/2011/11/taste-of-testaccio-rome-food-tours.html.
We have seven
food stops planned, as well as a few touristy places, one of which is Keats
grave. It’s really not too cold, but because I’m still not feeling well, I feel
yucky. The first stop is Barberini for a cornetti and tiramisu. The tiramisu
was in a chocolate espresso cup mold – so cute – gave me a great idea for a dessert!
The shop was amazing. I took a photo of their display case. We walk and talk
from place to place and I am not paying attention at all. Here’s where a food
tour like this – even though it’s a bit pricy, is worth it because the guide
has connections and they are prepared for us.
The second
stop is Volpetti. It’s here where we’re given about 15 minutes to shop. We’ve
been asked to limit our shopping to here so we’re able to get through the tour
on time and no one is waiting on people to shop at each place. What a great
place to shop, though! Meats, cheeses, balsamic vinegar, oils…we are served
samples of prosciutto, which melted in our mouths. Salami, pecorino cheese with
truffle, and parmigiano reggiano, which was young and not so sharp – I loved it!
They shrink wrapped our purchases so we could take them on the plane. The shop person who waited on me then had me
taste a balsamic vinegar that was like honey. He then wrapped up my purchases
so fancy! I think everyone bought a little something.
Our next stop
was Volpetti Piu for pizza margherita, which is not my favorite, but this was
pretty good. Here’s what we found out. There are two types of pizza – pie and
slice and slice tends to be a little thicker. I got pizza several times on this
trip and it’s never sliced! You slice it and eat it with a knife and fork. If
you want to buy it by the slice, you show the shop person how big a slice you
want. Then you pay for it, not by the slice, but by how much it weights. The
guy behind the counter was funny. I went over to get a photo with him, and he
asked our guide if I was traveling by myself! I have him a kiss on the cheek.
The next stop
is the Testaccio Market – a covered market. The market has a history that goes
back over 100 years, but this is a new facility, finally completed last year.
As with any country rich with history and loads of artifacts, every time you
try to do any excavation to build, you run into something that needs to be
carefully dug up and it stops construction. The market is amazing with about
150 vendors. We get a chance to see some awesome produce, meats; fish…our first
stop is to try some insalata caprese, bruschetta al pomadoro, cannoli. Now,
what I find out is that we say bruschetta wrong, it’s actually pronounced bru
sket a. The two tomato dishes were awesome because the tomatoes were awesome!
We finish up that market with THE best cannoli I’ve ever tasted – the secret is
to fill them at the last minute – and the goat’s milk ricotta! After we left
the market, we saw where the meat market was – it was HUGE!
Here’s
another interesting fact we learned. Food and wine used to be transported in
terra cotta pots. These, of course, would break. What would they do with the
broken pots? The started a mound where the pieces were piled in a very
organized and strategic manner, and the pile became a mound. It was discovered
that this mound made an excellent place to keep wine cool because of the
natural insulation of the terra cotta. As time when by, shops were built into
the side of the mountain, and that’s how the neighborhood got its name!
Now, it’s
time for lunch! LOL! We had red and white wine, and three types of pasta! The
restaurant was called Flavio Al Velavevodetto, and we were served cacao e pepe,
amatriciana, & carbonara. It was so hard to even be hungry! Next we stopped
at 00100 Pizza, where we had suppli alla Genovese, (fried rice balls) flavored
with the Neapolitan Genovese sauce. I don’t think anyone finished theirs. It
was good, but would have been better on an empty stomach.
Our seventh
and last stop – Giolitti for gelato. We found out from our tour guide that
there is good gelato and fake gelato. The fake is made with powder, has tons of
air incorporated into it, and has fake, neon-like colors! This was definitely
the good stuff. Gelato has more milk than cream, and is kept at a lower
temperature than ice cream. I had the nougat divinity flavor – which is all the
rage in Italy and we learned to make in our chocolate class, and pistachio. I,
of course, had it with whipped cream.
We finished
our tour around three, so I decide to check out some of the other stores. Big
mistake because most of the shops are closed for lunch. Just as well – how
could I get anything more in my suitcase?! When I bought the shoes, I asked the
shopkeeper to just wrap them in paper because I couldn’t put the box in my
suitcase. I make my way back to the metro, and head back to the B & B. I
drop my stuff off and take one more tour through St. Peter’s. So, it’s now
reality time. I pack my carry-on to the brim, my backpack, and my suitcase. I’m
officially over by four pounds. Oh, well, I knew it would happen. The next
morning, I catch my last cab to Roma Termini, go to the station to see which
train to take, and head to the airport.
Let’s just
leave the trip home – where I ended up spending the night in the Philly airport
because I missed my flight, to no discussion, because I don’t want that memory
to be a memory! Almost everything made it home, and the only thing broken was
my nativity from St. Peter’s, but I was able to fix it. What an awesome trip
and I’m so glad I decided to go.
